Savage Opress - The Clone Wars

   I was asked by a couple if I could rework a costume they had made. The character was Savage Opress from animated TV series Star Wars: The Clone Wars.

We had a chat about the positive and negative elements of the existing costume.  One of the issues was that the armour was a little flat and the arms holes were too tight. Rendering a 2D image into real world 3D always presents issues. There is a pesky thing here on Earth called gravity. Gravity does not exist in comic books. So getting the full effect one the shoulder poudrons and arm blades were always going to be tricky. The suits had to wearable as the customer was going to use the costume for trooping. Prior to the order for the costume being placed I was at a trooping for the 99th Garrison at the Bluebell hospice I found a comic book of the Clone Wars. Perfect reading for the back story of Savage Opress.

The tunic was a good fit and just about fitted one of my manikins. It was not difficult to work out the size and relative positions of the pouldron lames [the individual leaves of the pouldron] from the screen shots. Card is a handy material to make up maquettes of the pieces. The key bit for me was to make the pouldrons appear to be floating. The obvious answer is spacers but they would effect the curve of the pouldron and how was I going to create a foundation to support the floating poudrons? 

   The answer was to create a yolk that fit under the tunic and rest of the costume build hinged on this decision. The yolk comes in two parts, one for each shoulder. The yolk sits on top of foam padding. The padding gives a comfort fit and at the same time holds the screws in place and shields the heads from the costumers skin. I used a 50mm webbing straps to act as a hinges to allow movement in the front chest area. The back strap holds the yolk in place without help from the tunic but also allows the tunic to be removed. After getting the yolk to work it was relatively straight forward to cut all the lames and blades from Aluminium. As with any cutting process the edges needed cleaning up and all the pairs of lames and arm blade needed regularising. Regularising ships planks just needs a plane, regularising lames needs a file and a lot of patience especially the blades. At this stage I was ready from a first fitting. 

 We arranged to meet on the motorway and booked a meeting room for our purposes. I had profiled the yolk in advance and prepped the webbing straps. I dropped the yolk on Mark [the customer]. It was a close fit from the off. It took about half an hour to custom fit the yolk. We then secured the yolk to the foam padding. Another tweak session with the padding locked in place. The tunic was then placed over the yolk for a trial fit. My concern was that the yolk would be to bulky under the tunic. The fit was good. It actually tightened up the tunic. The sleeves holes were always a bit tight. We decided that the sleeve holes would definitely need to be changed. The tunic had fleece sleeves and these would not support the arm blades and the arm aperture need re-profiling. With Mark in his suit we spent a good deal of time marking up the tunic with the position of the pouldron's fixing points and the arm blades. Julia made sure we had plenty of tea to lubricate my brain. We finalised the requirements and packed up and said our goodbyes.

   Back in the studio:  The detailing on the tunic was a little lacking on the pectoral area of the chest. I made a couple of large shaped patches to fit from the chest to the shoulder blades, one of reach side. The patches were sewn on with and pocket padded out with wadding to give the chest area a level of relief. The next job was to cut all the spacers to length for PVC rod. The rod had to drill for the special interscrews. The interscrews had to be cut to length for the position in which they to be installed allowing from the thickness of the Aluminium and the leather that was to cover the aluminium in the finishing. The spacers gave the floating effect. The interscrews gave the strength and articulation of the lames. One vital for the look the other vital for comfort and wearability. The arms were re-made in leather and a little larger than the originals to allow for the arm blades supporting plate and foam backing. More spacers and interscrews for the blades. Then all I had to do cut holes in the tunic and sleeves for the interscrews, drill holes in the Aluminium yolk, lames and blades and assemble the armour, spacers and interscrews. It took ages. This was a second fit. Having decided it all fitted together, I took all apart again.

   The next step was to cover the lames and blades with shiny leather. In this case special finished lamb.The lamb gave the Aluminium substrate more body. This job was a trial of epic proportions. The finish had to be just so as it is the final finish. The interscrew holes had to be re-drilled and cleaned up. Only then could I reassemble the pouldrons to ensure they still fitted the articulated. I should not that worried they fitted fine. The blades were covered and fitted to the sleeve via the supporting plate. I should say at this time that clock was ticking, not because Mark had created a deadline but because I was to debut Savage Opress at MCM Birmingham three weeks from the first fitting. 

   I had a little leather over from the pouldrons so I fugured to would be worthwhile recovering the siliver elements of the boots. Part way through the molding of the toe boxes I was thinking I had made a mistake however more tea and some perseverance and the job came together. We decided the kilt needed better support so I added eight heavy duty poppers which would secure the kilt to the tunic very securely. I got some rubber coloured paint [Tamika] the paint out the heads of the poppers. 

   The final job was the vambraces [forearm armour]. Card, pencil and scissors created maquettes of the vambraces. I wanted the floating effect but had to compromise the size of the pieces. It that gravity thing again as well as the ergonomics of the piece in the real world. I was able to used the original leather arm bracers as a base for the Aluminium, soon to be covered in leather vambraces. I created a vent in the cuffs of the original bracers to make access easier and to be able close the cuff tighter if needed. The maquette was made into a pattern; the Aluminium cut and cleaned, the flat Aluminium rolled to the desire circumference, covered with leather and fitted to the bracers with spacers for the flying effect. The final piece is going to be completed with latex gloves is Opress colours but with the addition of claws, in the meantime I made a couple of plates for the back of the hands, finished to complement the vambraces. That that was it finished. I made a display stand to use at MCM. All done with a couple of days to go. The tricky bit is to stop titivating the piece. I was lucky to have other pieces to distract me from Savage O.

   Mark lent me the Latex Savage Opress mask. The display stand was made to hold the bust on which the mask was fitted. Savage looked a bit round shouldered at MCM but it did not stop a constant stream of folks taking pictures and talking about it. The word is that there is a Savage Opress in Northern Ireland and one being made in Scotland. Mark's is the only one in England and Wales. 

          

 Mark took delivery of Savage Opress on 8th December. We made a tweak to one of the lames. I am sure he was pleased with it. I came away with a nice bottle of Sherry to boot. 

          

Ash - Evil Dead 1

   I like to do costumes or at least part of them. The more under stated the better. A chap asks me if I would consider tackling the harness for the boomstick [shotgun] for the hero, "Ash" from the zombie classic Evil Dead 1. We don't have a lot to go on. We have clips from the movie and a resin cast figurine. The resin cast model turns out not to be that faithful to the film. It is in the spirit of the hero, Ashley J. Williams, but he production constraints probably had a hand in the sculpting. Having viewed many YouTube clips, reviewed many screen shots together with measurements of the replica props, the shotgun in particular and measurement of the customer a pattern emerged.
  

  All I had to do was find suitable brightwork [Buckles and rings], suitable leather and manufactuer a chainsaw toggle hook. Making the harness was just a case of careful measurement and strap making, finishing and stitching. The boot for the shotgun [boomstick] took some careful pattern making as the replica shotgun, a 1830 Eyatt Earp side by side shotgun is heavy and only comes in one size. The challenge was to make the shotgun boot the right shape relative to the customer and the shotgun. I think I pulled it off.  






The belt was
was not part of the brief but I thought the overall look demanded the extra work. I managed to find a very good match for the buckle based on the screen shot. The next special element was the chainsaw toggle hook. Ash loses a hand in film and replaces it with a chainsaw....as you do. He has a hook on the harness to grab the toggle on the pull starter. I managed to find suitable materials and a morning in the workshop left me with a good version of the hook. It fixes to the harness with a pair of Chicago screws.

   I like everything to be multi-purpose where ever I can arrange it without compromising the piece. In this piece I made the shotgun boot detactable. It took a little imagination to design the clips but the effort well worth the effort. The customer put in as much effort to the other elements of the costume and it shows. Once the harness was worn, the heat of the body and the weight of the boomstick as well as a slight alternation to the boot closure thongs brought the boomstick into the correct position on the back.




 


Ashley "Ash" J. Willaims - Evil Dead 1

Mord Sith - Mistress Denna

   I have had this costume in mind for ages since my brother-in-law mentioned that one of his acquaintances was considering the character Denna from the TV series "Legend of the Seeker" as a cosplay. I found a suitable piece of leather before last Christmas. I just did not have all the elements, which included time, to make a start.

 I had made several maquettes of the "armour" but in the end went with a version that was not a direct copy of the TV character. For one thing I was not making this piece as a commission so did not have a person to work to. And for another thing the pattern within the leather is so nice it seemed a same the cut into it and overlay the front and back plackart [waist element] with wide belts.

  The plackart, to use a medieval armourer's term, which is the element like a corset or thick belt was reasonably straightforward to do. Contouring the side pieces was a bit tricky without a live torso to work to. The two placket side pieces are laced to the back element. The front element is laced on one side and buckled on the other. This mimics accents on the character's costume. I chose to use differing styles of buckles just for the heck of it. There is a more prosaic reason for the lacing on both the gorget and placket which is the costume can be adjusted to the wearer.  On the TV character the gorget is much more lose. The leather is 3mm cow hide but it has been worked to a supple finish so it should be easy to wear.

   Maquettes made, torn up, re-worked and finalised I laid them on the hide to minimise the wastage but also to get the nicest pieces of hide into the large flat areas. I also wanted to get the soft edge of the hide for the neck of the gorget. I had several belts to cut from the hide so had to make sure there was length left after the body parts were cut. Measure twice, cut once was a mantra I was always taught however measure ten times and cut once is much more careful especially since the time for a replace hide of this price and quality would mean I probably would not attempt the piece again. I drew round the patterns then, which a new blade in my knife, I very carefully cut out the pieces. I had to remember that elements of the gorget are left and right handed.


Cutting out done it was a mind sapping session of shaving and burnishing all the edges. Shaving rounds the edge and burnishing lays the fibres of the leather and brings the edge to a smooth finish. Just in case that was not enough I pin lined every piece and dyed the edges black. I think it gives a shadow effect the edges. It will probably make the placket and gorget standard out especially against a light coloured under suit.

    I tackled the assembly of the gorget first. This way just a matter the taping all the pieces of the gorget together on the dummy then working out where the punch holes would go for the lacing. I decided on the buckles on the shoulder to make dressing easier. Lacing was a pain for me and I imagine it would a trial for a cosplayer when dressing. I think the buckles look great and make dressing much less difficult. The lacing is in crosses rather than the chevrons of the original piece. The lacing could be re-threaded if the wearer wished. Cross threading is much more secure.

   The placket was a straightforward assembly. It was a bit of a juggle to hold the pieces whist the marking out was done.  Again for easy of dressing I used d-rings for the side lacing. I think the aiguilettes are a nice touch to finish the front lacing. The straps that terminal at the front are supposed to reach right around from the back plate, cutting through it and the side plate in several places. Again I diverged from the TV costume. The leather was too nicely figured to be cut and hidden by straps.

  





Just for architecture detail I brought the back the gorget and plackart together in a point. I intend to put a straps and buckle here to connect the two pieces. I figure the plackart with need some support.

   The costume has two belts. The front view shows that this one is a little long but when it is fitted for a wearer I shall finish the belt to the required fit. I am waiting on a metal fitting from the USA for the second strap. In the meantime the piece is for sale. We can tweak and adjust it if needs be. 


 

New venture in to costumes

Originally Posted 3/13/2013

   I had always had an interest in tailoring. My auntie used to run a business making Irish dancing dresses. My Mum used to make clothes for me and my brothers.  Mum used to make us jackets and trouser. I have come to understand how difficult it is to make proper jackets.
  I was due to go to the Spaceport event. I thought I should go to the event in some kind of costume. I figured that I should look different to the visitors. It turned out to be a good idea. But what should I wear? I decided that there was not time to make a proper Star Wars character costume. Part of the problem would be the need to join one of two groups appearing at the event. Part of the issue was also that the group would have to pass the costume.
   A Facebook “friend” lives in Hungary and makes a living as a shepherd and makes of period leather armour.  Again there was not enough time to do a full leather armour rig. Whilst researching Hungarian Steppes riders and discovered the Ciskos horsemen.  The idea formed of having baggy trousers, with my riding boots and paired with a shirt and a waistcoat. I did not think to try to and make a shirt and waistcoat. I bought them from an outlet in Birmingham. The trousers where going to be my piece. I got a pattern for culottes, zip, thread and hooks from the haberdashers. It took a while to pick some cloth for the trousers. I picked some really nice 100% fine woven wool.
   Once I understood the pattern I cut leg patterns from top to bottom. When I pinned the pattern to the cloth I left a 12” [300mm] gap between the two halves of the leg pattern. That introduced a great deal more material. After a couple of false starts, dead end and missing my way I ended up with a pair of legs and zip front. The next big job was painstaking but not difficult. I had to measure and pin the pleats. I arranged the pleats to run from the front centre towards the back seam. Big pins are a revelation. With it all pinned I sewed the pleats. After that making the deep waist band the fitting of it to the legs was surprisingly easy. In retrospect if I was not under a time pressure I could have done a neater job. Having said that the wool moves nicely which is helped by the yards of cloth, a bit like a kilt.
   I needed some leather to go into the costume. After all that is what I do. I had a look in the odds and end shelf and found a nice piece of leather. It was just about the right length and width. I made the belt just a small bit smaller than the trousers waist band. The belt is four inches wide with a two inch strap and buckle. I edged the leather to give it some subdued detailing.

   I thought that the belt was not enough. It had been said to me that medieval style purses would work in that genre. I thought let’s make a bigish medieval purse. I had a nice piece of soft black leather. I hemmed the top edge, folded the leather in half and sewed up the edges. That gave me a bag. My daughter was in town so I asked her to pick up some items to embellish the bag. I sewed on a stiff piece of leather to strengthen the back of the bag and provide an anchor for the belt hanger. I cut and the holes for the draw string and set the metal hole liners. I laced the holes. By this time my daughter was back. She had got me some tassels and Acrylic “stones”.  I glued the stones to the ends of the draw strings. I sewed a tassel into the bottom corner of the bag. I was also given three Acorn bells but what to do with them. I made a chain and attached one bell to the bottom of the chain. I then made two shorter chains and attached a bell to each chain. I attached the other end of the short chain part way along the main chain. I ended up with a cascade of jingle bells. The free end the long chain was attached, with double jump rings, to the draw string.

   I was a bit stumped on how I was going to suspend the bag if I was going wear it with deep belt.  The muse struck me. I had some hooks that were flat in section. I also had some decorative chain. The set two holes in the stiff leather I had reserved for the hanger. I then threaded the chain through the holes and using jump ring attached the hooks to the chain. The chained hooks were passed up behind the belt and hooked onto the top edge of the belt. When the bag is worn the chains and hooks are trapped between the belt and the body which makes it secure.

   The bells,tassels and draw strings weights gave the bag plenty of movement whenever I stepped about. The bag is essential when wearing the Ciskos trouser because they do not have pockets. I could see my wearing, what I would call, a drop leg bag or purse.

   When I tried my shirt on the sleeves were a bit long. I quickly made a pair of short strops to go round my biceps to keep the sleeves up. My costume was all black and silver/chrome. From the ground up I wore; tall leather riding boots, Ciskos trousers, Deep belt, drop leg purse, Balck shirt, arm straps and a heavy cotton waistcoat. It was suitably different but not obviously Star Wars. With a little application it could have been made be a Sith Lord. Perhaps another day!