Ash - Evil Dead 1

   I like to do costumes or at least part of them. The more under stated the better. A chap asks me if I would consider tackling the harness for the boomstick [shotgun] for the hero, "Ash" from the zombie classic Evil Dead 1. We don't have a lot to go on. We have clips from the movie and a resin cast figurine. The resin cast model turns out not to be that faithful to the film. It is in the spirit of the hero, Ashley J. Williams, but he production constraints probably had a hand in the sculpting. Having viewed many YouTube clips, reviewed many screen shots together with measurements of the replica props, the shotgun in particular and measurement of the customer a pattern emerged.
  

  All I had to do was find suitable brightwork [Buckles and rings], suitable leather and manufactuer a chainsaw toggle hook. Making the harness was just a case of careful measurement and strap making, finishing and stitching. The boot for the shotgun [boomstick] took some careful pattern making as the replica shotgun, a 1830 Eyatt Earp side by side shotgun is heavy and only comes in one size. The challenge was to make the shotgun boot the right shape relative to the customer and the shotgun. I think I pulled it off.  






The belt was
was not part of the brief but I thought the overall look demanded the extra work. I managed to find a very good match for the buckle based on the screen shot. The next special element was the chainsaw toggle hook. Ash loses a hand in film and replaces it with a chainsaw....as you do. He has a hook on the harness to grab the toggle on the pull starter. I managed to find suitable materials and a morning in the workshop left me with a good version of the hook. It fixes to the harness with a pair of Chicago screws.

   I like everything to be multi-purpose where ever I can arrange it without compromising the piece. In this piece I made the shotgun boot detactable. It took a little imagination to design the clips but the effort well worth the effort. The customer put in as much effort to the other elements of the costume and it shows. Once the harness was worn, the heat of the body and the weight of the boomstick as well as a slight alternation to the boot closure thongs brought the boomstick into the correct position on the back.




 


Ashley "Ash" J. Willaims - Evil Dead 1

The Milkman's Cash Bag

   I have just completed a very satisfying refurbishment. A chap saw me at the Ashby show and asked if I could fettle his cash bag. Not a offer you get everyday but more often than you might think! As a milkman or roundsman they get given a cash bag for collecting money from the customers. It is a classic design. It is very like the ones my Dad had when he was a bus conductor.

   In this bag the dividers for the pockets had perished and some the stitching was freying. The centre of the turnbuckle, the part that come throught he base plate to holds the flap shut, had disappeared. The job was to replace the dividers and if possible replace the turn buckle.
 

The first jobs was to split the stitching and clean up the seam edges. With the gussets out it was easy to clean the inside of the bag. Next a pattern was made from what remained of the now free dividers. Then I cut two new dividers from the English bridle leather that was on hand. The next stage was to sew a divider in. The divider had a gusset on each side that formed the pocket which gave three plys of leather to stitch through. The holes in the gusset where already pierced from the sewing when the bag was originaly made bu the new divider was not pierced. The bag was originally machined stitched so the holes were close together. I went round the bag's gusset saddle stitching using the old machine holes as a guide. The stitch holes in the gusset where not too badly corroded so the finish was better than I had expected.


    With one divider/gusset sets complete I just had to run round the second set. One has to be careful not to pinch or stretch the old leather to ensure it that it starts and ends properly onthe bag. It took a couple of hours of careful stitching to complete the job. I then took a look at the freyed stitches. I ripped out what was poor and restitched the offending areas. The last job required a turn buckle to ordered. As you might expect the new item and old item where incompatible. I stripped out the old turn buckle plate and replaced with the new item. The new turn buckle required rivetting to the bag rather than the old one which just had turn out sprags. It probably why the old turn buckle was missing. It was not up to the job. To finish the job a rubbed in a generous dose of Neatsfoot oil. It brought the old leather of the carcass and belt up a treat

     

Ashby Show

   Ashby Show [Click HERE for website] was a big deal for me. It was the first full scale agricultural show I had attended as a trade exhibitor. I had been on the other side of the counter many times. I had been fretting about the weather. For a week before the show the weather had been amazing, hot and sunny, just as a summer should be. I was concerned the weather might break on or before the show. I was at the show ground at 7am. It was grey and we, my fellow traders, felt a couple of spots of rain. We set up, optimistic that the weather gods would be kind to us. As the morning gave way to the afternoon the sun came on in full effect. It was glorious summer's day in England.

   The horse riding event were held early in the morning so they were pleased with the relative cool weather. It took me ages to get set up. As they say work expands into the time available. I usually get set up in 45 minutes at the market. It took me over an hour. My pitch was on the main avenue running between the public car park and the show ring. My stall neighbours was Lester who made horse inspired jewellery on one side and on the other side a pair of brothers, Geoff and Ben, who sold knives. All very complimentary trades. I like to think that was arranged by the show organisers. I was set up before the gates opened although there were some very early starters.

 

   I nipped off and got the bacon butty and a brew. I sat in my fold-up chair and ate them in peace for a few minutes. Just as I wiped the flour off my face the fun began. I was on my feet all day. There was a steady stream of browsers, questions, folks reminiscing about bygone skills, stories of lost loves and working in leather. One chap asked if I was mending things today. Yes was the answer. He whipped off his belt because it needed a rivet resetting. His missus was a bit put out at his actions but this happens to me all the time at the market. He was an interesting chap. I had a chat with the knife brothers. They asked about a sheath for a 14" butchers knife. So just for something to do I made them one. I knew if I started making something it would draw a crowd. The brothers were chuffed with the result. I let them have the sheath. Their knives need sheaths they are wickedly sharp.

  One chap was very interested in the stitching leather together. After a minute or two of disconnected questions I stopped him. I got two small pieces of leather and showed him the process; edge, mark, prick, stitch and burnish. He was fascinated. I gave him the piece and he went any way delighted with his "gift". I like an enthusiast.

   The Denna piece, on the dummy on the left of the stall, drew comments and enquiries all day. I even got one of the girls to try the gorget on. She was a LARPer [Live Action Role Player] so she liked dressing up. The table was arranged from left to right as re-enactors/costumes, tack, bags/cases, belts and the Cedar blocks on the end. At the back I had a couple of hides and on the left I had a belt lengths of hide. I don't make belts a spec. I like folks to pick the leather for the belt from the strips of hide. I think it adds something to buying a bespoke belt.

   Hazel came along to help me with the day. Hazel had sense to turn up a a civilised time. Hazel kept me going but did manage to see all of the show. I managed to see the car stand directly opposite me across the avenue and the quick scan over the vintage cars as I quickly walked to the loo and back.

   A number of familiar faces popped up on the other side of the counter. So a big thanks to them for the support. You know who you are. 

   Plenty of cards where taken and given out with a bit of luck commissions will arise from them. One chap, Ian, said he would see me the next afternoon, Monday. OK I though. 4pm Monday my phone goes off and it is Ian. He give me a commission, exactly as discussed. [Update the commission is completed]. I also went over to see the stunt rides but I just missed there show. I met them at their tent/stable/truck and had a good chat with them about tack and horses. I did just happen to have a few pieces of tack over my shoulder...as you do. It was a very full day. Hazel had brought some lunch but I did not get a break until 2pm and then had to eat on the run as folks were still coming by. I also met a very interesting fellow from the Hedgelayer's Society. 6pm came and a flurry of activity saw the camp disappear into its respective vehicles. It went away quicker than it came out.

   So that was Ashby show done. I got a few ideas, some of which I have already put into action, and met a bunch of decent folk. I even picked up a few quid.

A Little Commission

 
 
Not all commissions are big or expensive. This is a brow band for a pony. The customer wanted a simple black band but to a precise length. That I have done. Stitching at twelve picks the inch is murder.

Apron of all aprons

   I decide I should have an apron to work in, to stop my clothes getting grubby and to protect myself from the odd slip of the awl or knife. As usual it took me a while to decide on the design. After all this was to be for me rather than a customer. I had a piece of oiled calf hide earmarked for the body of the apron. Then it was just a question of how to secure it me whilst I worked.





I made a belt. I had a fancy Brass buckle set [buckle, keeper and belt tip] in stock. I used rivets and stitching to join the belt to the apron. Next I made a neck strap and just for the hell of it connected one end of the strap to the bib of the apron with a shield and a sam brown. On the other side of the bib I used an cast brass Eagle clasp.






   I am fussy about things hanging on my neck. That issue comes from a old motorbike injury...that's a whole other story. I made a bridle to sit on the neck strap. From the bridle a ran a strap down the back to a buckle and loop on the belt. That takes the pressure off my neck. I had a neat medieval centre bar buckle in stock to use on the back strap. Then to finish job I made a pocket on the bib for my pencil and split the front panel so I hold the clams between my knees.

Probably the most expensive apron in the world...but it looks good.

 

In retrospect I am not keen on the look of the bridle so I will probaly do that piece again.

Lead Rein

  It has been a busy week. The hours have just flown by. However I do have plenty to show for the hours spent this week. I more or less finished a Mord Sith costume, had a commission collected, made a halter for a  heavy horse, made a lead rein, sorted out someone that has been messing me about on Folksy, tweaked a costume I am delivering in a week or so. And I have chatted to lots and lots of people on facebook and elsewhere. So it has been very positive. Next week I will have to very organised and nothing must go wrong so that everything is done and ready for the market and country show next weekend. I foresee early mornings and late nights all next week. If it is all not ready by Friday we will just have to "run what we brung".

   I like the lead rein I have made. It will compliment the halter I made. You could just as easily use it as a dog lead. The leather is English bridle leather. This leather is great to work with but does take some extra effort. However it fairly glows when the job is done. The strap billet starts 1" [25mm] wide. It cut it length ways into three strands. Then the fiddly bit, to dye and burnish the edges of the strands. Very hot work on a hot day. Next the strands were plaited making sure the strands lay flat. It is a good job I have strong fingers as this was a power job to bend the stands required by the plait. The clams came in handy to hold the free ends of the plait whilst I secured them with some stitches. It was a bit ticklish to line up the handle loop around the free plait ends in readiness for stitching, but I got there. Thereafter it was plain sailing to stitch the handle loop on and then on the other end of the rein to stitch the lead chain on.

   The plaiting makes for a supple and shock absorbing connection between the animal and the handler. Where the strap is still a billet the leather is stiff and strong. The overall length of the rein is 32" [800mm]. About half leather and half brass. The brass has twisted links so that it lies flat, a swivel at the the rein end and a Walsall hook on the business end.
   

Mord Sith - Mistress Denna

   I have had this costume in mind for ages since my brother-in-law mentioned that one of his acquaintances was considering the character Denna from the TV series "Legend of the Seeker" as a cosplay. I found a suitable piece of leather before last Christmas. I just did not have all the elements, which included time, to make a start.

 I had made several maquettes of the "armour" but in the end went with a version that was not a direct copy of the TV character. For one thing I was not making this piece as a commission so did not have a person to work to. And for another thing the pattern within the leather is so nice it seemed a same the cut into it and overlay the front and back plackart [waist element] with wide belts.

  The plackart, to use a medieval armourer's term, which is the element like a corset or thick belt was reasonably straightforward to do. Contouring the side pieces was a bit tricky without a live torso to work to. The two placket side pieces are laced to the back element. The front element is laced on one side and buckled on the other. This mimics accents on the character's costume. I chose to use differing styles of buckles just for the heck of it. There is a more prosaic reason for the lacing on both the gorget and placket which is the costume can be adjusted to the wearer.  On the TV character the gorget is much more lose. The leather is 3mm cow hide but it has been worked to a supple finish so it should be easy to wear.

   Maquettes made, torn up, re-worked and finalised I laid them on the hide to minimise the wastage but also to get the nicest pieces of hide into the large flat areas. I also wanted to get the soft edge of the hide for the neck of the gorget. I had several belts to cut from the hide so had to make sure there was length left after the body parts were cut. Measure twice, cut once was a mantra I was always taught however measure ten times and cut once is much more careful especially since the time for a replace hide of this price and quality would mean I probably would not attempt the piece again. I drew round the patterns then, which a new blade in my knife, I very carefully cut out the pieces. I had to remember that elements of the gorget are left and right handed.


Cutting out done it was a mind sapping session of shaving and burnishing all the edges. Shaving rounds the edge and burnishing lays the fibres of the leather and brings the edge to a smooth finish. Just in case that was not enough I pin lined every piece and dyed the edges black. I think it gives a shadow effect the edges. It will probably make the placket and gorget standard out especially against a light coloured under suit.

    I tackled the assembly of the gorget first. This way just a matter the taping all the pieces of the gorget together on the dummy then working out where the punch holes would go for the lacing. I decided on the buckles on the shoulder to make dressing easier. Lacing was a pain for me and I imagine it would a trial for a cosplayer when dressing. I think the buckles look great and make dressing much less difficult. The lacing is in crosses rather than the chevrons of the original piece. The lacing could be re-threaded if the wearer wished. Cross threading is much more secure.

   The placket was a straightforward assembly. It was a bit of a juggle to hold the pieces whist the marking out was done.  Again for easy of dressing I used d-rings for the side lacing. I think the aiguilettes are a nice touch to finish the front lacing. The straps that terminal at the front are supposed to reach right around from the back plate, cutting through it and the side plate in several places. Again I diverged from the TV costume. The leather was too nicely figured to be cut and hidden by straps.

  





Just for architecture detail I brought the back the gorget and plackart together in a point. I intend to put a straps and buckle here to connect the two pieces. I figure the plackart with need some support.

   The costume has two belts. The front view shows that this one is a little long but when it is fitted for a wearer I shall finish the belt to the required fit. I am waiting on a metal fitting from the USA for the second strap. In the meantime the piece is for sale. We can tweak and adjust it if needs be.