Wednesday, 26 June 2013

Locking the thread

   The iconic stitch for joining two pieces of leather together is Saddle stitch. The key to this stitch is that a knot is formed within the leather being joined. The knot locks every stitch and should the exposed thread of the stitch be broken the seam with not open as the locking knots either side of the broken stitch keep the seam together.

   To get started you need a length of thread. I use waxed linen thread. Sometimes I buy the factory waxed thread and sometimes the raw Linen thread and rub the wax on before stitching. The factory waxed thread is extremely well impregnated with wax. If you keep the awl holes small you can have a waterproof bag since the waxed thread is such a tight fit in the holes and the wax fills the minuscule voids. Saddle stitching starts with a length of thread with a needle on each end. If you were to sew with the thread simply through the eye the needle you would be frustrated quite quickly. One has to create some tension in the stitch and with the thread simply threaded it is going to pull out of the needle as soon as the tension comes on. Threading a needle once is enough bother never mind re-treading every few minutes. The answer is to lock the thread onto the needles.

The needle on the right is what we will end up with. The needle on the left is where we start.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle.
Turn the needle to the tail end of the thread and pass the point through the thread strands a short distance from the end of the thread.
Pull the loop down the needle and onto the thread. Pull the standing part of the thread though the loop until the thread lies flat like the needle on the right. I usually put my thumb and forefinger on the point where the loop and eye meeting then spin the needle to twist the thread together. I find the wax helps the loop to be more secure and smooths the joint so it slips easily through the awl holes in the leather.
Once you have the thread locked onto the needles all that is needed is to prepare the leather.




Thursday, 20 June 2013

Daily Teaching Paraphernalia

   It has been all go for the last few weeks. I have completed two commissions bar a buckle and brass plaque. I cannot unveil them yet because the customers have not seen them yet. I am pleased with both of them. They are very different pieces. I have organised my work schedule so I will be ready for the Ashby show on 14th July. It does not seem very far away and I suspect I will be burning the midnight oil starting Monday.

  I am close to finishing a tote bag. I call it a teacher's tote because I designed it for my good lady who is a tutor. It takes loads of files and daily teaching paraphernalia. It is as tough as old boot. The latest one is made from strong but soft hide which has a metallic camouflage pattern printed on to it. It am adding the extra securing of copper rivets to the handles. They should look smart too. Pictures to follow.

Monday, 10 June 2013

Shopping and Keeping Focused

  As a rule I do not like shopping. However shopping for leather is another story. I have several sources for my raw material. Which one I buy from is dependant on what I going to make. Some of the suppliers serve a particular market, other are more general in there coverage and one is very special.

   Thursday last I went to Northampton to my general supplier. Northampton was a major centre for the shoes making industry in times past. Industrial scale shoe making has been moved overseas like so many other manufacturing businesses however the design and development departments of many famous name shoe makers are still based in the town. I had a chat with the owner. I had brought swatches as references for the items I was to make. This kept me focused as I could easily spend all my money buying interesting leather. The shops has two parts. One part is out warehouse which is racked out of one side to hold hundreds of rolls of leather of every conceivable colour, weight and finish. Under the packaging desks, on the other side of room are more more racks but this area has all the high quality leather which are stored flat. It was from these racks I got a bridle shoulder. This is for my exhibition pieces of bridles and halters. I also got a very nice piece for one of my commissions.

   The other part of the site is "The Shed". This is a more casual affair. More racks on the walls but also pallets on the floor. Leather everywhere. Everything from Buffalo to lamb kips and again all kinds of finishes. The tricky bit is that no two hides are the same and the finishes can be a bit dodgy with blemishes here and there. However the hide is good quality, notwithstanding the blemishes, and it is cheaper. You just have to figure out how to cut the piece from the hide and work out the benefit of wastage versus cheapness. I found many decent hides I just had to focus on what was needed for my immediate needs.


  Then the fun begins. Estimating the size of the hide. You have to pay for all the hide even though it irregular in shape. Multiplying the square footage by the price. Then some chin scratching and sucking in wind. Maybe even a low whistle. Cost, counter cost. Eventually a shake of hands and one of the chaps wraps up the purchases. Everywhere I go they wrap the hides in brown paper.


  


Sunday, 9 June 2013

Update on note to self

   Unfortunately I did not take any notice of my note about over indulging. It was quiet at the market on Saturday due to another event being held in the town. Just as well perhaps. It was not at my perkiest. Mr and Mrs B collected their belt and are thinking about another project in leather.

   On Sunday I went over to Hill Farm to their open day. The farmer is one of the stall holders at Castle Donington. I had a good chat with the girls about the horses and had a good look over their tack. It was a very hot day for working the horses. Storm drew the short straw and got the pull the harrow around for half and hour or so. It takes the fork lift the move the chain harrow but Storm drags it round the field quite easily.



  

Tuesday, 4 June 2013

Note to self

   Note to self. Don't over indulge on Friday night as it is the Castle Donington Farmer's Market on Saturday morning. See you there after 8.30am at St Edward's School, Dovecote, Castle Donington. DE74 2LH.

  I have asked to take along my virtual bee hive. So I will be doing that too!